Herstellung

Herstellungsprozess des Garns

10
Apr

Trennung und waschen des Roh-Cashmere

Nach der Cashmere Ernte wird der Roh-Cashmere bei unseren Nomaden abgeholt. Dieser wird dann in die verschiedenen Farben eingeteilt. Die natürlichen Farben der Cashmere-Ziege sind weiß, grau, braun und schwarz. Der nach Farben sortierte Roh-Cashmere kommt dann an seine erste Verarbeitungsstation das sogenannte Entgrannen. In diesem Schritt, wird das Unterhaar ( der feine Cashmere) vom Deckhaar der Ziege getrennt. Es befinden sich natürlich auch grobe Haare des Felles der Ziegen im ausgekämmten Roh-Cashmere. Über bleibt nur mehr der feine Cashmere.

Dieser wird dann gewaschen und von Schmutz befreit. In unserem Video seht ihr wie der Entgrannte und gewaschene Cashmere aussieht.

Färbung

Im nächsten Schritt wird der Cashmere gefärbt. Dies erfolgt in 3 Schritten.

Zuerst wird der gewaschene Roh-Cashmere in einen Bottich gefärbt. Hierfür wird der Cashmere, je nach Gewünschter Farbe 30-50 Minuten in einem  Behälter bei einer Temperatur zwischen 60 und 80 Grad in der Gewünschten Farbe gebadet. Umso dunkler die Farbe umso länger muss der Cashmere gefärbt werden. Darunter leidet natürlich die Faser ein bisschen. Daher sind hellere Farben meist etwas weicher als dunklere Farben.

Im nächsten Schritt wird der gefärbte Cashmere getrocknet. Dies passiert in speziellen Laden mit einer sehr guten Luftzirkulation. Nachdem der Cashmere  getrocknet ist, wird er noch mit einem natürlichen Öl behandelt, um die statische Aufladung zu verhindern.

Verspinnen

Nach der Aufbereitung des Roh-Cashmere und der Färbung, wird der Garn noch versponnen. Dafür wird er zunächst in einer speziellen Maschine, diese seht ihr in diesem Video, aufbereitet. Nach diesem Schritt wird der Cashmere Versponnen. Je nach Garn Stärke werden entweder 2,4,6 oder sogar 8 Fäden miteinander versponnen. Dieser Gar wird dann auf Spulen aufgewickelt, die dann in unserer Partnerfabrik in der Mongolei kommen und aus denen wir dann unsere tollen Pullover für Euch stricken.

 

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